Faucet install (kitchen/bath, customer-supplied) — Wheeling & the NW suburbs

Faucet replacement: what a kitchen or bath install involves

Swapping a faucet is one of the most popular home upgrades, and one of the jobs where the visible part is only half the story. The real work is under the sink, where old shutoff valves, stiff supply lines and tight spaces decide how smoothly it goes. This guide explains what a faucet install visit covers, what to check about your sink and existing valves, and the things that can turn a quick swap into a longer job.

Before you book

The visit is for installing a faucet you have already bought, for a kitchen or bathroom sink. Check that the new faucet fits your sink. Count the holes in the sink or countertop and compare them with what the faucet needs. A single-hole faucet can often be fitted to a three-hole sink using a deck plate that covers the extra holes, but that needs checking. A three-hole faucet cannot be fitted to a single-hole sink.

Check the material of your countertop. Standard laminate and most solid surfaces are fine, but if you need to drill a new hole in stone such as granite or quartz, that is specialist work and may need a different quote.

Look underneath. Photos of the sink from above, the space under the sink and both shutoff valves close up help the pro plan the visit. Clear everything out of the cabinet before the pro arrives, and keep the faucet's instructions and all its parts, including any supply lines that came in the box.

Why old valves and lines matter

Under every sink are two small shutoff valves, one for hot and one for cold. They are often original to the house and may not have been turned in years. Old valves seize, corrode and leak when they are disturbed, and a valve that will not close fully leaves the plumber unable to shut the water off to the faucet. The older the valve, the more likely it is to be a problem.

Hard water is a contributing factor in this part of the country. Mineral scale builds up inside valves and around connections, making them stiff and prone to weeping. Similarly, the old flexible supply lines that connect the valves to the faucet can crack, kink or corrode, and it is standard practice to fit new ones with a new faucet.

If a valve needs replacing during the job, the plumber will tell you at the time. That is a pre-disclosed possibility, not a surprise, and it is priced per valve. A working valve is a good thing to have, since it means the next repair will be much easier.

What the visit involves

The plumber closes the shutoff valves, opens the old faucet to release pressure, and disconnects the supply lines and drain connections if needed. The old faucet is unbolted from the sink, and the surface is cleaned where it sat. The new faucet is set in position, secured from below, and connected to the supply lines. If there is a pop-up drain or a sprayer, these are connected and adjusted.

The plumber then turns the water on slowly, checks each connection for leaks, runs the faucet on hot and cold and flushes debris out of the aerator. They test the drain, and if there is a sprayer or pull-down hose, they check it moves freely.

Old faucets can be surprisingly hard to remove, with corroded nuts that are impossible to reach with ordinary tools. Plumbers carry basin wrenches and other specialized tools for these tight spaces. If the visit uncovers a problem that is not part of the standard scope, such as a valve that needs replacing or a damaged drain, the plumber will explain and agree the next step with you.

What moves the price within the range

The range covers a standard swap. A bath faucet with good valves and easy access sits at the lower end. A kitchen faucet with a sprayer, a pull-down hose or a separate soap dispenser takes more time, as does a cramped cabinet with a garbage disposal in the way.

The main additions are the ones flagged earlier. Replacing a corroded shutoff valve, per valve, adds to the price. New supply lines, if you do not have them, add a smaller amount. A single-hole faucet on a three-hole sink needs a deck plate check. Drilling into stone or a stainless steel sink requires specialist handling and a separate quote.

The more the plumber knows in advance, the more accurate the estimate. Send clear photos of the sink, the valves and the faucet box before the visit.

Replace the faucet only, or the valves too?

If the valves are old, replacing them while the water is already off is often sensible. It avoids a second visit later when a valve fails at a bad moment. If the valves work smoothly and do not leak, they can stay.

A faucet swap is also a good moment to think about the rest of the setup: fresh supply lines, a new drain assembly or a better shutoff. Ask the plumber for a view when they see the space. If the sink itself is chipped, cracked or stained, replacing the whole sink is a bigger job and priced separately.